Cycling in Iceland

If you are planning an adventurous cycling trip, Iceland is unique in many ways. It is safe to travel here if you are properly prepared and you will find Icelanders both helpful and friendly. You can plan your own trip but there are also a few companies that specialize in guided bike tours.

Cycling in Iceland

The weather 

Iceland’s cool, oceanic climate is quite mild for its latitude, thanks to the Gulf stream. The summers are short and the best time to visit is late May to early September. The average daytime temperature around the coast during May to September is 10-12°C (50-55°F). Average daily sunshine in July and August is 5-6 hours and during the summer months the nights are bright, on clear days you have 24 hours of daylight and even the midnight sun near the Arctic Circle.


However, the weather is extremely changeable and unpredictable so you should always be prepared for the unexpected. You can encounter strong sudden winds and even snow in the middle of summer, even if you stick to the main road, so you should always follow the weather forecast and in all cases carry warm clothing with you. Try to keep your plans flexible so you can follow the wind instead of struggling against it. If you must go against the wind, you might consider cycling in the late evening and in the night (in June and July) as the wind usually calms down in the evening. Benefits of this will also be far less motor traffic on the busier roads and the wonders of experiencing sunset and sunrise, but of course less access to most shops and services.


You can get the weather forecast by telephone: +354 902 0600 or just by asking the locals, Icelanders follow the weather forecast almost religiously. At altitudes in the interior highlands the temperatures are of course lower. Check out the weather forecast at the Icelandic Meteorological Office www.en.vedur.is or www.m.en.vedur.is/m for mobile phones.

The roads 

A rather large portion of Iceland’s road system is made up of gravel roads, especially those with less traffic. Those with some kind of asphalt can be found on the website of the Road Administration www.vegagerdin.is/vegakerfid/ slitlog where gray and red are asphalt, yellow gravel.


The main highway around Iceland, Route 1, circles Iceland in around 1400 kilometers. Once you get away from the South-West part the traffic becomes less but it is fast and the roads get narrower, especially once you get off Route 1. On the gravel roads you may encounter long stretches with potholes, “washboards” or loose sand but far less traffic.

Cyclists are allowed in all tunnels except the one under Hvalfjörður fjord. The Road Administration has a website www.vegagerdin.is/english with maps showing current road conditions including the interior highlands and weather conditions on certain mountain roads etc.


The interior highlands 

The mountain roads across the interior highlands are usually closed until late May or even as late as July, depending on the road and the weather conditions in spring. The Road Administration has information on mountain roads and when they open in the summers at www.vegagerdin.is.


The highland roads are all rough gravel/dirt roads of various qualities from packed mud to washboards, loose gravel and even sand which may be impossible to bicycle when it has been dry for some period. Many rivers must be crossed on fords and can become dangerous in much rain and in case of glacier rivers, in much heat. You may therefore have to wait until late night or early morning to cross some glacier rivers during the summer. Mountain bikes with fat studded tires for good tracking and comfort and low gear ratios to help climbing steep hills are recommended.


Accommodation 

Various huts can be found in the highlands, and can be found on most detailed maps. They may (quite likely) be full and need to be booked well in advance. In the lowlands, guesthouses and hotels can be found but accommodation is not guaranteed so a tent is recommended as an option.


In general travellers are allowed to put up their tents everywhere except in cultivated land, too close to residential buildings and especially protected areas. It is still a common courtesy to ask farmers for permission before camping on their land.

Food and drink 

Food can only be purchased in towns and some other highway locations. You will therefore have to bring food for several days when you are crossing the highlands. As Iceland is sparsely populated there may be 100 to 200 km between shops even on the Ring road between Mývatn and Egilsstaðir and Höfn and Skaftafell.


Water can usually be accessed quite easily in the countryside from streams and rivers. However in sand and lava areas water needs to be carried. Never take water from areas where farms or fields are upriver. There you can visit the farms and get tap water. Water from glacier rivers should only be drunk in emergency and preferably filtered. Usually 1 to 2 liters of water carrying capacity is enough.

Based on information from The Icelandic Mountain Bike Club, visit their website for further info: www.fjallahjolaklubburinn.is/index.php/english

Cycling events in Iceland 
www.hjolamot.is

The Blue Lagoon challenge
From Hafnarfjörður to the Blue Lagoon, 65 km.
www.bluelagoonchallenge.com


Jökulmílan
160 km or less around Snæfellsnes.
www.hjolamenn.is - www.jokulmilan.is

WOW Cyclothon
Cycling with a team around Iceland within 72 hours
www.wowcyclothon.com


Tour de Hvolsvöllur
110 km from Reykjavik to Hvolsvollur.
www.hvolsvollur.is

Tour de Ormurinn
65 km cycling around Lögurinn, starting in Hallormsstaðarskógur. www.facebook.com/TourDeOrmurinn

Become a superhero in Iceland
by cross-country skiing, swimming, running and cycling
www.landvaettur.is

Practical hints for Cyclists using Public Transport

- Cyclists bringing their bikes on flights to Iceland should pack them in suitable boxes.
- Due to limited space at the Keflavik air terminal, there are no facilities for assembling or disassembling bikes there.
- The Youth Hostel in Laugardalur offers facilities to assemble and disassemble bikes and will store transport boxes for a reasonable fee. This is also the location of the Reykjavik camping area. The Flybus takes you between the airport and the Youth Hostel. At Keflavik airport, Bilhotel offers storage of transport boxes. Contact them for their fees.
- In most domestic airports you will find some space to work on your bike. Just be considerate and don‘t take up too much space.
- For getting out of Reykjavik, public transport to e.g. Kjalarnes, Akranes, Borgarnes or Hveragerði is a good option. It is cheap and there can be two bikes on each bus if space permits. Transport of bikes in the buses of Strætó bs. is free of charge.
- By starting the trip from Reykjavik on the bus the bicyclist avoids the hectic and traffic-loaded ways leading to and from the Capital area. By taking the bus to Akranes, one bypasses the only tunnel in Iceland that is not passable by bike: the Hvalfjörður tunnel. Leaving the bus in Kjalarnes on the way to the West and cycling the Hvalfjörður fjord is especially pleasant, though. The fjord enjoys fantastic nature and sparse car traffic.
- In Iceland public transport buses are operated by several companies. The map reflects which company operates which routes. The operators have homepages showing the seasonal schedules, prices and other useful info. Apart from Strætó, most collect fees for the transport of bicycles. It is advisable to check beforehand the conditions of the operator you plan to travel with.
- You can get on or off the bus everywhere the main road meets smaller roads on the route in rural areas, just be sure to make clear if you want the bus to stop. In the Capital area and other areas with local buses, they only stop at marked stops.
- For certain, more remote routes, (e.g. 79, 83 or 84), please consult with the service center at tel. 540 2700.
- In rural areas, bikes are put in the luggage compartments of the buses. The number of bikes that can be allowed on any given bus can not be guaranteed, but bikes are usually allowed while there is room for them.
- For all rural buses, you can buy tickets on the bus. When you pay for a single fare in local Strætó in Reykjavik, you must have the excact amount needed, as there is no change.
- Most domestic ferries do charge for the transport of bicycles.

Cycling Iceland Map 2013

Iceland has a lot to offer for those who choose to use a bike to discover the land of fire and ice. This summer a unique map was released where travellers can in one place find practical information, a list of bicycle related services and public transportation.

Download the PDF-version (12 mb)
Cycling Iceland map 2013


Links

A bicycle tour in Iceland
http://userweb.eftel.com/~wheelbuddies/iceland/

Cycling around the world
http://www.cyclingaroundtheworld.nl/iceland/ie_iceland.htm

Cycling in Iceland
http://members.ziggo.nl/erens/icecycle.htm

Iceland by bike
http://blog.eddokloosterman.com/2012/09/iceland-by-bike-pt-1/

Cycling in Iceland
http://www.cycletourer.co.uk/cycletouring/iceland.shtml

Source: Ferdamalastofa
Johanna, Iceland24
May 2015

Krafla Caldera - Planning a Trip in Myvatn and Krafla

Krafla is a volcanic area in the northeast of Iceland, and one of Iceland’s largest lava lover lures. Craters, cones, pools and geothermal heat – Krafla has it all.

Krafla is basically a 10 kilometre wide caldera which contains volcanoes – the latter containing a small azure-coloured geothermal pool and the former containing Iceland’s deepest lake. Both are inland in the Highlands and only accessible in the height of summer.


But the Krafla area starts close to Lake Mývatn and only a few minutes’ drive from Reykjahlíð village. At this convenient nearest point, accessible in any car, you will find the remains of the lengthy mid-80s eruption. This means a large, relatively flat area to explore and the opportunity to get up close and personal to spiky lava, hot pools, bubbling mud, ‘eggy’ sulphur smells and the expansive power station in the area.

The large Krafla geothermal power station takes full advantage of the volcanism in the area and its run-off is used in the lovely Mývatn Nature Baths. The site is also home to the first drill hole of the fascinatingly exciting Iceland Deep Drilling Project.


The project looks to harness the power of “super critical” water in energy generation and this involves drilling down to the lava where large quantities of water can quickly be heated to over 400°C. The project aims to drill around 4 km below the surface – but at Krafla the scientists and engineers hit lava at just 2,500 metres. That’s shallow!

Krafla is a sensitive site and is easily damaged by people walking around and exploring. That is the reason the site is so well marked with footpaths and trails. These, combined with the good car park and bathroom facilities make Krafla a good place to go hiking with children and people with somewhat reduced mobility. The paths may be suitable for wheelchairs in good weather, although they can get soft and muddy in wet conditions.


Krafla is the best place to see first-hand where Iceland comes from. The whole country used to look like this at one point – as in fact did almost every country if you look far enough back into prehistory. It makes a good contrast with places like the Reykjanes peninsula down south, which features the same sort of landscape, except a few thousand years older. The difference is at once both stark and surprisingly little.


One thing is for sure: we all owe our lives to volcanoes and given long enough, Krafla will develop into remarkably fertile soil. But none of us will be alive to see that…

Krafla Geothermal Power Station

Development for harnessing of geothermal steam at Krafla, near Lake Mývatn in north Iceland, began with trial boreholes in 1974. Construction work commenced in the summer of 1975. The powerhouse and other structures were designed for two 30 MW turbines.

The station was initially designed and built for the Icelandic State and was run by the Krafla executive committee and later taken over by the State Electric Power Works. In 1985 Landsvirkjun purchased the Krafla station from the State.


Various initial difficulties were encountered in exploration and drilling for steam, largely due to seismic and volcanic activity which caused corrosive magma vapours to enter the geothermal system, destroying the borehole linings. A series of nine volcanic eruptions began in the vicinity of the station in December, 1975 and lasted intermittently until September 1984. Seismic and volcanic impact on operations at Krafla has been gradually diminished since then.

In 1996, Landsvirkjun decided to complete the install action of the second unit. Drilling for steam began immediately using improved drilling technology which has proved highly successful. Electricity production from the second unit began in November 1997, and since late 1998, the Krafla station has been operated with full capacity of 60 MW, as originally planned.

Get there by bus from Mývatn
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Berglind Rós
Iceland24
April 2015

Sprengisandur: Route F26 or Sprengisandsleið - Iceland

Route F26 or Sprengisandsleið is a highland gravel road in Iceland, running through the Sprengisandur area between the glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.With its 200 km, it is the longest of the Icelandic highland roads. Its southern end is at the lake Þórisvatn, to the northeast of the volcano Hekla, and its northern end is the lower part of the valley of the river Skjálfandafljót, to the southwest of lake Mývatn.


Featuring the most desolate terrain found in Iceland, Sprengisandur is the bleak highland desert east between Hofsjökull – the rounded icecap marking Iceland’s geographical centre – and Vatnajökull’s northwestern front.


In earlier times, when people were more superstitious than they are nowadays and believed in ghosts, giants, elves and outlaws, the few who dared use this route rode as fast as possible through and sometimes exhausted their horses. The word for to exhaust in Icelandic is "sprengja", hence the name of the area.


Although providing something of a corridor in Viking times between Iceland’s northeastern settlements and the summer parliament at Þingvellir, crossing Sprengisandur was always a tough journey, the desert flooded in spring with melting snow and ice, yet too dry in summer to provide any grazing for horses. Indeed, most travellers preferred to take much longer coastal roads, and Sprengisandur was eventually abandoned as a route during the thirteenth century.


Traversed today by the F26, which begins northeast of Hekla and runs some 244km to the Ringroad at Goðafoss, the Sprengisandur route remains a challenging one, whose unbridged rivers and stark scenery provide an insight into medieval Iceland’s harsh living conditions. Sprengisandur’s southern gateway is marked by Hekla, north of which is the desolate, icy plateau between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.

The enduring image here is of nothingness: the glaciers and mountains that fringe the horizon seem a long way off, and the space in between is filled with mile after mile of grey sand, stones and rocks that have lain untouched for thousands of years.


PLANNING A TRIP

Exploring the Area

Hrauneyjar Highland Center, a year-round highland oasis at the southern terminus of the Sprengisandur Route, has two hotels and restaurants, an information desk, and the last gas station for the next 240km (149 miles). A trail map of the surrounding area is available at reception.

As a base, Hrauneyjar is best for travelers with their own 4WD transport. The Highland Center organizes tours only for groups, and the best local destinations -- such as Veiðivötn lakes, or the lovely Dynkur, a waterfall on the Þjórsá river -- are inaccessible to regular cars.


Veidivötn. Trout fishermen are particularly drawn to this idyllic and peaceful cluster of fifty volcanic crater lakes, located close to Landmannalaugar but accessed through Hrauneyjar on Route F228.


Fishing permits (2,000kr/day/$32/£16) and sleeping-bag accommodation (2,500kr/$40/£20 per person) in four bunk-style cottages are handled by Landmannahellir (tel. 893-8407; www.landmannahellir.is).


Nýidalur. An overnight stay at this remote desert outpost, combined with a day hike east to Vonarskarð pass, makes for a memorable episode along the Sprengisandur Route. Nýidalur is right on Route F26, about 100km (62 miles) from Hrauneyjar and 20km (12 miles) from the northwest corner of Vatnajökull.

Vonarskarð forms a dramatic saddle between Vatnajökull and the small glacier Tungnafellsjökull, and the hiking route skirts some restless geothermal fields. Sudden releases of glacial meltwater can make stream crossings difficult, so speak to the warden before setting out. Those just passing through Nýidalur can still take the short easy hike east to a nearby hill with panoramic views.


By Car

With its rough surfaces and hazardous river fords, Route F26 is only for rugged 4WD vehicles with good clearance. The road's opening date varies, but usually falls at the end of June. The Public Roads Administration (tel. 354-1777; www.vegag.is; May-Oct 8am-4pm; Nov-Apr 8am-5pm) continually monitors road conditions.

It is the longest stretch between the South and the North and is only passable by 4wd vehicles during summer. The obstacles enroute are rivers, which have to be forded and the water can be up to 1 meter or more (specially it's the 1 river crossing 5 km before you reach Nýidalur). For a person that is not an experienced off-road driver, anything smaller than Land Rover/Toyota Land Cruiser is not recommended at all.


They swell when it is warm, the glacial meltwater increases and when it also rains they become dangerous. The scenic beauty makes this route unforgettable.

Warning: Gas is not available on Route F26, and the gas stations at Hrauneyjar and Goðafoss are 240km (149 miles) apart (Unprepared drivers are often seen begging for fuel at Nýidalur).

Hiking

This part of the Interior offers a great variety of possibilities for short or long hikes. In most cases it depends on the individual traveller to decide which hillock or mountain is the best vantage point, or how far to go into the wilderness.

Long hikes require good planning, preparations, and physical fitness. The psychology has to be considered as well.


Sometimes the vast, barren landscapes, and the solitude overwhelme hikers, who are travelling alone and do not meet a soul for days on end.

By Bus

Reykjavík Excursions (tel. 562-1011; www.re.is) connects Landmannalaugar and lake Mývatn via the Sprengisandur Route from July 1 to August 24.

Departures from Mývatn are Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 8:30am, and departures from Landmannalaugar are Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, also at 8:30am.

The full one-way trip lasts 10 hours and costs 8,000kr ($128/£64), with stops at Hrauneyjar, Nýidalur, and Skútustaðir, plus sightseeing breaks at the Aldeyjarfoss and Goðafoss waterfalls.

Passengers taking the bus from Mývatn to Landmannalaugar must wait until the following day for connections to Reykjavík and elsewhere.


Where to sleep

Hotel Highland (Rte. 26, Hrauneyjar, In the area). Tel. +354 487-7750.

Walking into this high-end hotel and restaurant is a surreal transition from the wild and remote landscape outside. The Highland was a farm accommodation as recently as 2005, and some rooms are still transitioning design-wise, but you won't suffer for sheets with an insufficient thread count.

- Hrauneyjar Highland Center (Rte. 26, Hrauneyjar, In the area). Tel. +354 487-7782.

This hotel is adjoined to Hrauneyjar's gas station and information desk, and the Reykjavík Excursions bus through Sprengisandur stops here. The rooms are spartan but comfortable, and, if you've just come through the desert interior, the whole place is Shangri-La. Confusingly, 17 of the rooms -- which share a guest kitchen -- and the four apartments are located next to Hotel Highland but classified with the Highland Center.


Visitor Information

No specific tourist information office is assigned to the Sprengisandur Route, but regional offices in Hveragerði, Varmahlíð, Akureyri, and Mývatn can provide help.


The Hrauneyjar Highland Center (tel. 487-7782; www.hrauneyjar.is) is a useful resource, and the warden at Nýidalur (tel. 854-1194; July-Aug) -- while not responsible for helping non-guests -- is usually happy to answer questions.

Johanna & Sindri, Iceland24
April 2015